Cosmetic composition containing as colorant at least one 5-methoxy-8-methyl-2-phenyl-7H-1-benzopyran-7-one derivative

ABSTRACT

A cosmetic composition containing at least one derivative of 5-methoxy 8-methyl 2-phenyl 7H-1-benzopyran-7-one, the method of preparing these derivatives, and novel derivatives are disclosed. The cosmetic composition contains at least one compound of formula (I) ##STR1## as a coloring in a suitable cosmetic carrier, wherein R is a methyl, hydroxymethyl, or methoxymethyl radical. The cosmetic compositions may include lipsticks, nail varnishes, hair lotions and face make-up products.

This application is a 371 of PCT/FR94/00695 filed Jun. 10, 1994.

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition which contains ascolorant at least one 5-methoxy-8-methyl-2-phenyl-7H-1-benzopyran-7-onederivative.

The present invention relates more particularly to a cosmeticcomposition containing as colorant a mixture of5-methoxy-8-methyl-2-phenyl-7H-1-benzopyran-7-one derivatives obtainedfrom tissue cultures of Basella rubra, in an appropriate medium.

It is well known that the majority of cosmetic compositions, whetherintended for make-up or for skin care or hair care, contain variableconcentrations of at least one colorant which may be of the pigment typeand is intended either for colouring the nails, lips or hair or forgiving the composition a certain colouration which enhances its visualappearance.

Numerous colorants have already been proposed for incorporation intocosmetic compositions such as, for example, lipsticks, nail varnishes,hair lotions and into make-up products for the face, in the form offoundations or creams of varying fluidity.

Up until now the choice of colorants has been dependent on the nature ofthe cosmetic compositions, which constitutes a serious disadvantageinasmuch as numerous tests must be carried out to determine theselection of these colorants.

It has now surprisingly been found that it is possible to use a certainclass of colorants universally in cosmetic compositions, which colorantsare essentially red to dark red and are derivatives of5-methoxy-8-methyl-2-phenyl-7H-1-benzopyran-7-one.

One subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic compositioncontaining as colorant, in a suitable cosmetic excipient, at least onecompound corresponding to the following formula (I): ##STR2## in which:R represents a methyl, hydroxymethyl or methoxymethyl radical.

The compounds of formula (I) are more particularly the following:

5-methoxy-6,8-dimethyl-2-phenyl-7H-1-benzopyran-7-one (compound Ia),

5-methoxy-6-hydroxymethyl-8-methyl-2-phenyl-7H-1-benzo-pyran-7-one(compound Ib), and

5-methoxy-6-methoxymethyl-8-methyl-2-phenyl-7H-1-benzo-pyran-7-one(compound Ic).

Compound Ia is a known compound whose preparation has been described byBorckmann et al., Chemische Berichte, vol. 77, No. 5, pp. 347-353, 1944.

Compounds Ib and Ic are novel and can be obtained according to the sameprocedure. These compounds also constitute one of the subjects of theinvention.

The compounds of the formula (I) and, in particular, mixtures thereofmay also be obtained by culturing calluses of Basella rubra.

Another subject of the present invention is therefore a novel processfor preparing red colorants from calluses obtained by tissue culture ofBasella rubra in an appropriate medium.

The patent application JP 166 396 describes the preparation of redcolorants from calluses obtained by tissue culture of Basella rubra in amedium supplemented with an auxin such as 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid(2,4-D) and with a cytokinin such as kinetin, followed by a step ofproduction of colorants by culturing the said calluses in the dark on aculture medium containing, for the purpose of increasing the yield, acombination of an auxin such as naphthaleneacetic acid (NAA) and acytokinin such as kinetin or benzyladenine.

The colorant substances obtained in accordance with the processdescribed in this application are colorants which are already present inthe plant of origin.

Surprisingly and unexpectedly it has been found that, when calluses ofBasella rubra are produced in a first culture medium in the presence ofnaphthaleneacetic acid and a cytokinin and the calluses obtained aretransferred and cultured in a nutrient medium containing2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4-D), it is possible to obtain, inthis second medium and without carrying out any special operations,colorants which differ from those described in the application JP 166396 and which are not present in the plant of origin.

This particularly surprising result is caused essentially by the factthat, in contrast to the patent application JP 166 396, the process ofthe invention uses in the second culture medium, instead ofnaphthalene-acetic acid, 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid, and because ofthe fact, moreover, that it uses in the first culture mediumnaphthaleneacetic acid in combination with a cytokinin.

Another subject of the present invention, therefore, is a process forthe preparation of at least one colorant corresponding to the generalformula (I), which process consists in preparing and culturing callusesof Basella rubra in a first, suitable nutrient medium containingnaphthaleneacetic acid and a cytokinin, then in transferring thecalluses obtained to a second nutrient medium referred to as thetransfer medium, and culturing them therein, this medium containing anauxin which is 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid, in separating thetransfer medium from the biomass and in subjecting the said transfermedium to an extraction and, optionally, in isolating at least one ofthe compounds of formula (I) by known methods.

In a particular embodiment of the process according to the invention,the process may also have the following characteristics, takenindividually or, if desired, in combination:

the cytokinin in the first culture medium is preferably kinetin;

the second nutrient medium additionally contains a cytokinin, especiallykinetin;

the step of preparation of the calluses is carried out under lightingwhich is sufficient to obtain chloro-phyllian calluses, whereas the stepof biosynthesis of the colorants after transfer of the calluses to thesecond nutrient medium may be carried out either in darkness or inlight;

the first and the second nutrient medium are of the Murashige and Skoogtype; and

the calluses used are calluses of Basella rubra, variety alba.

As mentioned above, after a sufficient culture time, the transfer mediumis separated from the biomass and is subjected to an extraction using asolvent which may be chosen from dichloromethane, methanol, ethylacetate and chloroform or mixtures thereof. When a water-misciblesolvent such as methanol is used, the water is first of all removedbefore the residue is taken up in this solvent.

The extract obtained after concentration may, if desired, be purifiedwith the purpose of isolating by known methods, for example bythin-layer or column chromatography, the compounds Ia, Ib and Ic asdefined above.

Yet another subject of the present invention is a compound correspondingto the following general formula (II): ##STR3## in which: R' representsa hydroxymethyl or methoxymethyl radical.

The compounds of formula (II) are more particularly the following:

5-methoxy-6-hydroxymethyl-8-methyl-2-phenyl-7H-1-benzopyran-7-one, and

5-methoxy-6-methoxymethyl-8-methyl-2-phenyl-7H-1-benzopyran-7-one.

It is self-evident that, in accordance with the principal subject of theinvention, namely the cosmetic compositions, the colorant may be in theform of an extract, that is to say in the form of a mixture or in theform of an individual compound which is isolated by the processdescribed above or obtained by way of organic synthesis.

In the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, theconcentration of colorant as defined above is generally between 0.001and 20% by weight relative to total weight of the composition.

When the colorant is intended more particularly for make-up productssuch as lipsticks, nail varnishes, powders or else foundations, theconcentration is preferably between 0.1 and 20% by weight and moreparticularly between 0.5 and 10% by weight relative to the total weightof the composition.

In contrast, when the colorant is intended solely to impart colourationto cosmetic compositions such as, for example, creams, oily gels or facemasks, the concentration is in this case markedly lower and ispreferably between 0.0001 and 1% by weight relative to the total weightof the composition.

When the compositions according to the invention are intended for use onhair, with the purpose of imparting to the latter a certain colouration,the concentration of colorant is generally between 0.05 and 10% byweight and preferably between 0.1 and 2.5% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

A conclusion from the abovementioned percentages is that theconcentration of colorant may vary within wide limits and dependsessentially on the intensity of colouration which it is desired toimpart.

According to the invention, the cosmetic compositions may be liquid,semi-solid or solid and may be presented in various forms such as, forexample, in the form of sticks, pastes, anhydrous or aqueous creams,emulsions, suspensions, dispersions or solutions and may consist oflipsticks, mascaras, rouges, eyeshadows, foundations, compact or otherpowders, or else nail varnishes.

According to the invention, the colorant as defined above may becombined with mineral or organic pigments, especially lakes, such as D &C Red No. 7 calcium lakes, D & C Red No. 6 and 9 barium lakes, D & C RedNo. 3 and D & C Yellow No. 5 aluminium lakes and D & C Orange No. 5zirconium lakes. D & C Red 30 and 36 may also be included in this list:because of their insolubility in water and in oils they are generallyconsidered as being pigments although they are not present in the formof metal lakes.

Among the inorganic pigments, particular mention may be made of ironoxides (red, brown, black and yellow), chromium oxides, ultramarines(polysulphides of aminosilicates), titanium dioxide, manganesepyrophosphate and Prussian blue (ferric ferrocyanide). These variouscompounds, individually or in the form of a mixture, are generallyemployed at a concentration of between 0.1 and 40% relative to the totalweight of the composition.

Moreover, these compositions may also contain nacreous agents such asbismuth oxychloride, titanium dioxide-coating mica and crystals ofguanine.

When the compositions are presented in the form of sticks, especiallyfor lipsticks, eyeshadows, rouges and foundations, an important part ofthese compositions consists of the fatty substance which may be at leastone wax such as, for example, ozokerite, lanolin, lanolin alcohol,hydrogenated lanolin, acetylated lanolin, lanolin wax, beeswax,candellila wax, microcrystalline wax, carnauba wax, cetyl alcohol,stearyl alcohol, cocoa butter, tanoline fatty acids, petrolatum,petroleum jellies, mono-, di- and triglycerides which are solid at 25°C., fatty esters which are solid at 25° C., silicone waxes such asmethyl octadecanoxypolysiloxane and poly(dimethylsiloxy)stearoxysiloxane, stearic monoethanolamide, colophony and derivativesthereof such as glycol and glycerol abietates, hydrogenated oils whichare solid at 25° C., and sucroglycerides and oleates, myristates,lanolates, stearates and dihydroxystearates of calcium, magnesium,zirconium and aluminium.

The fatty substance may also consist of a mixture of at least one waxand at least one oil, in which case the oil may be, for example:paraffin oil, purcellin oil, perhydrosqualene oil, sweet almond oil,avocado oil, calophyllura oil, caster oil, sesame oil, jojoba oil,mineral oils having a boiling point between 310° and 410° C., siliconeoils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol,oleyl alcohol, wheatgerm oil, isopropyl lanolate,.isopropyl palmitate,isopropyl myristate, methyl myristate, cetyl myristate, hexadecylstearate, butyl stearate, decyl oleate, acetyl-glycerides, octanoatesand decanoates of alcohols and of polyalcohols such as those of glycoland of glycerol, ricinoleates of alcohols and of polyalcohols such ascetyl ricinoleate, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl lanolate, isopropyladipate, hexyl laurate and octyldodecanol.

The fatty substance in these compositions in stick form may generallyrepresent up to 99%, alternatively 99.9%, by weight of the total weightof the composition.

These cosmetic compositions may also contain other ingredients, such asfor example, glycols, polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols,monoalkanolamides, colourless polymers, inorganic or organic fillers,preservatives, UV filters or other additives which are commonplace incosmetics.

These compositions in stick form are preferably anhydrous. However, incertain cases they may contain a certain quantity of water whichgenerally does not exceed 40% relative to the total weight of the stick.

When the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are presentedin semi-solid form, that is to say in the form of pastes or creams, theymay be either anhydrous or aqueous and constitute foundations, rouges,eyeshadows, lipsticks, etc.

When these pastes or creams are, on the other hand, aqueous, they arethen more particularly emulsions of the water-in-oil or oil-in-watertype in which the fatty phase represents from 1 to 98.8% by weight, thewater phase from 1 to 98.8% and the emulsifier from 0.1 to 30% byweight.

These compositions may also contain other conventional ingredients suchas fragrances, antioxidants, preservatives, gelling agents, UV filters,dyes, pigments, nacreous agents, colourless polymers and inorganic ororganic fillers.

When the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are presentedin the form of a powder, they consist essentially of an inorganic ororganic filler such as talc, kaolin, starches, polyethylene powders orpolyamide powders and of additives such as kaolin, starches,polyethylene powders or polyamide powders and of additives such asbinders, dyes, etc.

Compositions of this kind may also contain various additives which areconventional in cosmetics, such as fragrances, antioxidants,preservatives, etc.

When the compositions according to the invention are presented in theform of nail varnishes they consist essentially of nitrocellulose and anatural or synthetic polymer, in solution in a solvent system, or avarnish base which solution optionally contains other additives such aspigments and/or nacreous agents.

When the compositions according to the invention are intended forhair-care use they may be presented in the form of lotions, emulsions,thickened lotions or gels.

When the hair-care compositions are presented in the form of lotions,they generally comprise the colorant in aqueous, alcoholic oraqueous-alcoholic solution, as well as various additives which areconventional in this type of composition.

These compositions may also be presented in the form of an aerosolcomprising a propellent gas such as gaseous carbon dioxide, nitrogen,nitrous oxide, volatile hydrocarbons such as butane, isobutane orpropane, or else halogenated hydrocarbons.

When the compositions are presented in the form of emulsions, these maybe nonionic or anionic. Nonionic emulsions consist principally of amixture of oil and/or fatty alcohol and of a polyethoxylated alcoholsuch as polyethoxylated stearyl or cetearyl alcohols. Cationicsurfactants may be added, if desired, to these compositions.

The anionic emulsions are constituted essentially from soaps.

When the compositions are presented in the form of thickened lotions orgels, they contain thickeners in the presence or absence of solvents.The thickeners which can be used may be sodium alginate, gum arabic orxanthan gum, or cellulosic derivatives such as methylcellulose,hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose,hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose. The lotions mayalso be thickened by mixing polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycolstearate or distearate or by means of a mixture of phosphate and amide.The concentration of thickener may vary from 0.5 to 30% by weight,advantageously from 0.5 to 15% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 5%.The pH of the lotions varies essentially between 3 and 9 and preferablybetween 4.5 and 7.5.

By way of illustration, an example will now be given for the preparationof the colorants of formula (I) and of several examples of cosmeticcompositions according to the invention.

EXAMPLE 1

a) The plant used is Basella rubra, variety alba, with leaves and greenstems.

Explants are taken of stems and/or of leaf petioles, having a length ofapproximately 0.5 cm.

The explants are disinfected by immersion in a solution of mercuricchloride at a concentration of 1 for one minute and 30 seconds and arethen rinsed three times in succession with sterile water in order toremove the residues of mercuric chloride.

The explants are placed under aseptic conditions in culture dishescontaining an agar culture medium A consisting essentially of a nutrientmedium of Murashige and Skoog type supplemented with naphthaleneaceticacid (1 mg/l) and with kinetin (1 mg/l).

The culture conditions are as follows:

lighting conditions: 5 μ-Einstein/m² /s;

photoperiod: 16 h;

culture temperature: 26° C.

The culture dishes are Petri dishes with a diameter of 45 mm which eachcontain 12 ml of culture medium.

After one month primary calluses are obtained which are ofchlorophyllian type and show root emergence.

These callus cultures may be maintained by monthly transplantation.

b) Transfer to liquid medium

Plant tissues obtained after seven transplantation cycles and afterculture in accordance with method a) above are transferred to a liquidmedium. For this purpose, 2 g of tissues obtained after 1 month ofculture as described in a) are transferred to a 100 ml conical flaskcontaining 50 ml of medium A' (medium A minus agar). The flasks arestirred at 100 rpm, at 26° C. under lighting of 5 μ-Einstein/m² /s(photoperiod of 12 hours). After 8 days of culture under theseconditions, the appearance and development of structures of globulartype are observed.

These tissues may be maintained by periodic transplantation, every 15days for example, after filtration and inoculation in a new medium A'.

c) Induction of the formation of coloured metabolites

15-Day tissue cultures on medium A' are filtered over 50 μm Blutex clothand then are divided under sterile conditions into 250 ml conical flaskscontaining 100 ml of nutrient medium B, inoculation being carried out ata concentration of 25 g/l.

Medium B consists of a nutrient medium of Mdrashige and Skoog typesupplemented with 2,4-D (1 mg/l) and with kinetin (1 mg/l).

The culture conditions are as follows:

stirring at 100 rpm;

lighting: 5 micro-Einsteins per m² /s;

photoperiod: 12 hours;

temperature: 26° C.

At the end of a latency period of 24-48 hours, the appearance of a pinkcolouration is observed in the culture medium.

Study of the coloured metabolites in the tissues and in the culturemedium at different stages in the biosynthesis shows that thesemetabolites are not stored by the cells but diffuse into the medium.

The biosynthesis of the metabolites is accompanied by an absence oftissue growth.

To ensure continuity of production, the culture medium may be renewed.For this, the culture medium containing the coloured metabolites isseparated by filtration on a 50 μm Blutex cloth. The collected tissuesare taken up and transferred, under the same conditions of inoculationand culture, in a new, sterile medium B.

In addition, similar cultures were carried out in media which wereanalogous to the medium B but supplemented with different concentrationsof 2,4-D (2.5, 5, 7.5 and 10 mg/l).

It was noted that the production of coloured metabolites increases withthe content of 2,4-D in the medium.

Effect of Renewing the Medium

The production medium can be renewed. For this, the culture is filtered,for example, on a 50 μm Blutex cloth and the plant tissues aretransferred, under the same conditions of inoculation and culture, intoa new, supplemented medium B. It was observed that, under theseconditions, the productivity after renewal of the medium is increased bya factor of 1.4.

Effect of Lighting

The coloured metabolites may be produced with lighting or in the dark.In the dark, the yield may be doubled but the respective proportions ofcompounds Ib and Ia are different depending on the lighting conditions.

Extraction of the Compounds

The culture media separated by filtration as described above areacidified with 1 N hydrochloric acid to a pH of 2.5. They are thenextracted twice in succession by one volume of dichloromethane withstirring for one hour in each case.

In the case of agar culture media, three extractions are carried out insuccession with one volume of methanol.

The organic extracts obtained are subsequently concentrated to drynessunder reduced pressure at 50° C. and the residue is redissolved inmethanol and then analysed by thin-layer chromatography on a silicaplate (from Merck, Kieselgel 60 F2-54) using as eluent a 95:5 (v/v)mixture of dichloromethane/methanol. 3 compounds are distinguished,which are characterized respectively by the R_(f) of 0.45, 0.40 and0.30.

Subsequent analysis of the compounds showed that the compound with anR_(f) of 0.45 is compound Ia, that with an R_(f) of 0.30 is compound Iband that with an R_(f) of 0.40 is compound Ic.

Compounds Ia and Ib were isolated by medium-pressure chromatography on asilica column using a 94:6 mixture of dichloromethane/methanol aseluent. This separation made it possible to collect, in addition, afraction enriched in compound Ic, which was subsequently purified bythin-layer chromatography (silica; eluent: 0:20:10 ethylacetate/dichloromethane/heptane).

Medium-pressure chromatography was carried out using the silica marketedunder the name Merck Kieselgel (40-63 μm).

Medium-pressure chromatography of 400 mg of extracts, collecting 25 mlfractions, was carried out using a 96:4 eluent mixture ofdichloromethane/methanol. For an extract obtained on a 14- to 16-dayculture on medium B, 52 mg of compound Ia, 41 mg of compound Ib and 18mg of a mixture enriched in compound Ic were obtained. 1.3 mg ofcompound Ic were obtained by thin-layer chromatography using as eluent a70:20:10 mixture of ethyl acetate/dichloromethane/heptane and then a93:7 mixture of dichloromethane/methanol.

On the basis of this column fractionation, the extract obtained abovecontains approximately:

13% of compound Ia

10.2% of compound Ib

0.3% of compound Ic.

The structure of compounds Ia, Ib and Ic was established by means ofanalysis by mass spectrometry, UV spectroscopy, IR spectroscopy, ¹ H NMRspectroscopy, ¹² C NMR spectroscopy, and by a combination of ² D NMRwith ¹ H-¹³ C heteronuclear correlation and inverse-detection long-rangecoupling.

The infrared spectra were recorded by deposition and evaporation of asolution of compounds Ia, Ib and Ic in chloroform on a NaCl window usinga Brucker IFS 85 instrument.

The UV spectra were recorded in chloroform on a Shimadzu UV 2101 PCinstrument.

The mass spectra were obtained with EI using an Incos 50quadrapolar-type spectrometer (Finnigan).

The ¹ H-¹³ C and 2D NMR spectra were run on a Brucker AMX 500 MHzinstrument, using deuterated chloroform as internal standard.

These analyses made it possible to establish the structure which is thatindicated above.

By way of example, the absorption spectrum (I/V) in ethanol shows thefollowing maxima:

compound Ia: 495, 375, 326 and 255 nm.

compound Ib: 503, 365, 325, 275 and 244 nm.

Direct dyeing tests at spontaneous pH on locks of hair proved positive.The colouring power of the compounds of the invention was also observedon various substrates such as nylon cloths, silicone polymers, etc.

Stability of Colouration

a) Stability to light and heat

Tests were carried out on crude extracts by exposure to light at 254 nmfor 6 hours or to heat by maintaining the crude extracts for 6 hours ata temperature of 50° or 80° C. No modification in colour is observed.

Moreover, the colourations obtained on substrates show a good resistanceto washing.

With analogous treatment but at 100° C., the initial pinkish-red colourof the control extract takes on a modified orange-red shade.

b) Stability to pH

The crude extract in aqueous phase at a pH of between 3.5 and 10.5 showsno variation in colour (pinkish-red).

At a pH lower than 3.5 and at a pH greater than 10.5, the initialpinkish-red colour takes on a modified orange-red shade.

EXAMPLE 2

Hair-dyeing composition in the form of a lotion containing the followingingredients:

Extract of callus culture of Basella rubra,

    ______________________________________                                        obtained in accordance with Example 1                                                                      0.80 g                                           96% ethanol (vol/vol)        30.00 g                                          Triethanolamine       qs    pH = 8                                            Water                 qs    100.00 g                                          ______________________________________                                    

A lock of 0.15 g of permanent-waved grey hair (containing 90% of whitehairs) is immersed in 10 g of the above dyeing composition for 30minutes.

After rinsing and drying, the hair is coloured in a pink shade.

EXAMPLE 3

Hair-dyeing composition in the form of a lotion containing the followingingredients:

    ______________________________________                                        Extract of callus culture of Basella rubra,                                                                  0.23 g                                         obtained in accordance with Example 1                                         Vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer (65/35)                                                            1.50 g                                         96% ethanol (vol/vol)          30.00 g                                        2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol                                                                           qs    pH = 9                                          Water                   qs    100.00 g                                        ______________________________________                                    

0.15 g of this dyeing composition is applied per g of natural grey hair(containing 90% of white hairs). After a waiting time of 30 minutesfollowed by drying, the hair is coloured in a very light ash blondshade.

EXAMPLE 4

Cosmetic composition in the form of lipstick containing the followingingredients:

    ______________________________________                                        Liquid lanolin                 19.50 g                                        Microcrystalline wax           15.00 g                                        Capric/caprylic triglycerides sold under the name                                                            11.00 g                                        "Miglyol 812" by the company Huls AG                                          Octylglyceryl behenate         11.00 g                                        Sesame oil                     10.00 g                                        Titanium oxide                 3.00 g                                         Extract of callus culture of Basella rubra                                                                   3.00 g                                         obtained in accordance with Example 1                                         Butylated hydroxytoluene       0.20 g                                         Castor oil              qs    100.00 g                                        ______________________________________                                    

EXAMPLE 5

Cosmetic composition in the form of a rouge containing:

    ______________________________________                                        Liquid petroleum              6.00 g                                          Titanium dioxide-coated mica  10.00 g                                         Titanium dioxide              10.00 g                                         Red iron oxide                0.90 g                                          Black iron oxide              0.10 g                                          Extract of callus culture of Basella rubra,                                                                 1.20 g                                          obtained in accordance with Example 1                                         Talc                   qs    100.00 g                                         ______________________________________                                    

EXAMPLE 6

Cosmetic composition in the form of a pressed face powder, containing:

    ______________________________________                                        Mica                          10.00 g                                         Nylon powder                  10.00 g                                         Titanium dioxide              10.00 g                                         Isopropyl myristate           1.50 g                                          Liquid petroleum              1.50 g                                          Extract of callus culture of Basella rubra,                                                                 0.50 g                                          obtained in accordance with Example 1                                         Iron oxides                   3.00 g                                          Talc                   qs    100.00 g                                         ______________________________________                                    

EXAMPLE 7

Cosmetic composition in the form of a day cream containing:

    ______________________________________                                        Auto-emulsifiable glycerol stearate sold under                                                               3.00 g                                         the name "ARLACEL 165" by the Company ICI                                     Cetearyl alcohol               1.50 g                                         Triethanolamine                0.40 g                                         Homopolymer of crosslinked acrylic acid                                                                      0.40 g                                         (Carbomer)                                                                    Apricot oil                    12.00 g                                        Polyisobutene                  6.00 g                                         Sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate  3.00 g                                         Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane     5.00 g                                         Imidazolidinylurea sold under the name                                                                       0.20 g                                         "Germall 115" by the Company Sutton                                           Extract of callus culture of Basella rubra,                                                                  0.005 g                                        obtained in accordance with Example 1                                         Yellow iron oxide              0.001 g                                        Preservatives                  0.30 g                                         Water                   qs    100.00 g                                        ______________________________________                                    

We claim:
 1. A cosmetic composition, comprising a colorant, in asuitable cosmetic excipient, said colorant being at least one compoundcorresponding to the following formula: ##STR4## in which: R representsa methyl, hydroxymethyl or methoxymethyl radical.
 2. The compositionaccording to claim 1, wherein said colorant is selected from the groupconsisting of 5-methoxy-6,8-dimethyl-2-phenyl-7H-1-benzopyran-7-one;5-methoxy-6-hydroxymethyl-8-methyl-2-phenyl-7H-1-benzopyran-7-one;5-methoxy-6-methoxymethyl-8-methyl-2-phenyl-7H-1-benzopyran-7-one; andmixtures thereof.
 3. The composition according to claim 1 in the form ofa liquid, a semi-solid or a solid.
 4. The composition according to claim1 wherein said colorant is present in a proportion of between 0.0001 and20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
 5. Thecomposition according to claim 1 in the form of a stick containing from0.1 to 20% by weight of said colorant and up to 99.9% by weight of afatty substance consisting of at least one wax and, optionally, at leastone oil.
 6. The composition according to claim 5, containing up to 40%by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. 7.The composition according to claim 1 in the form of a paste or ananhydrous cream or an aqueous cream.
 8. The composition according toclaim 1 in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsioncontaining a fatty phase, a water phase and an emulsifier, the fattyphase representing from 1 to 98.8% by weight, the water phase from 1 to98.8% by weight, and the emulsifier from 0.1 to 30% by weight relativeto the total weight of the composition.
 9. The composition according toclaim 1 in the form of a pressed powder containing a filler selectedfrom the group consisting of talc, kaolin, starch, polyethylene powderand polyamide powder.
 10. The composition according to claim 1 in theform of a nail varnish containing, in a varnish base, from 0.1 to 20% byweight of said colorant.
 11. The composition according to claim 1 in theform of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic hair lotioncontaining the said colorant in a proportion of between 0.05 and 10% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.
 12. Thecomposition according to claim 11 wherein said colorant is present in anamount of between 0.1 and 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight ofthe composition.
 13. A process for preparing a colorant of the followingformula: ##STR5## wherein R represents a methyl, hydroxy methyl ormethoxymethyl radical, said method comprising the steps of:preparing andculturing calluses of Basella rubra in a first, suitable nutrient mediumcontaining, as auxin, naphthalene acetic acid and a cytokinin,transferring the calluses obtained to a second nutrient medium, referredto as the transfer medium, and culturing said calluses in said transfermedium containing, as auxin, 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid, to obtain abiomass separating the transfer medium from said biomass, subjecting thesaid transfer medium to an extraction and, optionally, isolating thecompounds of formula (I) from the extract.
 14. The process according toclaim 13, wherein said transfer medium additionally contains acytokinin.
 15. The process according to claim 14 wherein said cytokininis kinetin.
 16. The process according to claim 13 wherein said preparingcalluses further comprises using lighting which is sufficient to obtainchlorophyllian calluses.
 17. The process according to claim 13, whereinthe said first and said second nutrient medium are Murashige and Skoogmedium.
 18. The process according to claim 13 wherein said calluses areobtained from Basella rubra, variety alba.
 19. The process according toclaim 13, comprising performing said extraction with at least onesolvent selected from the group consisting of dichloromethane, methanol,ethyl acetate and chloroform.
 20. A compound of the formula (II):##STR6## in which: R' represents a hydroxymethyl or methoxymethylradical.
 21. The compound according to claim 20, selected from the groupconsisting of5-methoxy-6-hydroxymethyl-8-methyl-2-phenyl-7H-1-benzopyran-7-one; and5-methoxy-6-methoxymethyl-8-methyl-2-phenyl-7H-1-benzo-pyran-7-one.